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How does a pointer choose a jointer?

Choosing the right size jointer for your project.

Some common jointers for different joint profiles pictured above. From Left to Right: 1. Ribbon, 2.) Beaded, 3.) Concave, 4.) Flat.

Mortar and Grout joints vary in color, texture, size and profile. Color and texture will not factor in on your jointer selection. The jointer chosen for any application will be the one that will yield the closest size and profile to the existing surrounding mortar joints. 

For instance; if you have mortar joints that are 3/4" wide with a concave finish, you would want to start with a 3/4" concave jointer. Some masons, though, prefer to work with jointers a size smaller (5/8") than the existing open joint because it offers a bit more control when loading you jointer with mortar. 

What does a concave joint look like? What other types of mortar joints exist?

Good questions Jake. Thanks Jake. A concave joint is one that has sides flush with the exterior edge and rolls into the center....ya know what? This is going to be way too many words.... Heres a picture the most common joint profiles.

  

A unique tuck-pointing tool, (we call 'em jointers), exists for any application. 

Choose your joint profile: Pointing tools are available to accommodate the above 10 joint profiles. Each profile jointer is available in many sizes and styles.

Choose your joint width: After you know the joint profile, you'll want to know the joint size. Jointers are available in nearly all sizes but the most common/easy to find are

(1/8" - 1/4" - 3/8" - 1/2" - 5/8" - 3/4" - 7/8" - 1" - 1-1/4")

Other joint sizes and the tools to address them exist, though they are harder to find and made by fewer companies. 

Choose your style: Let's say you got your profile and joint size figured out and now you're looking for a 5/8" concave jointing tool. Now you will decide what type of jointer you want to work with. With different qualities, options (Handle grip, material, etc.), manufacturers "unique designs", your choices are many. But the basics are 2:

  1. Jointers with handles
  2. Dual sided jointers (Which are commonly used for slicking or striking joints after using a grout bag to fill them with mortar.)  Barrel Jointers are kinda their own thing, but their essentially dual sided jointers with removable replaceable blades.

With 10 joint profiles, and the many joint sizes, plus the variety of styles of jointers offered by other companies, that equals math. Math isn't my forte, masonry restoration and pointing are.  Let me help you keep it simple. The highest quality, longest lasting, easiest to use, best tuck-pointing jointers are our hand-forged premium jointers. 

All, yes, ALL the other jointers out there are either stamped or formed from lower quality steel, offering less wear resistance, or made with crappy tack-welds at where the tang meets the blade, so if they don't wear up right quick, they just break. 

Our jointers are hand-forged from a single piece of 4140 steel. 4140 grade is an alloy steel containing chromium and molybdenum as strengthening agents.  They are formed with just the right angle at where the tang meets the blade producing a well balanced comfortable tool while offering the perfect amount of clearance to prevent busted knuckles. AND each jointer is outfitted with a solid hardwood handle.

Are you a Pro in search of a better tuckpointing jointer? A DIY who appreciates nice tools? You're so close. Just a CLICK AWAY.

Questions? I like questions. Send us questions, We're here to help! 


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