For ease of information I will offer quantities needed per 80lb bag of premix mortar. Not using premix? The weight ratio of your custom mix will be in line with the following information. Bad at Math? I can't help there, shoulda paid attention in school...
Below is a basic chart offering guide lines for amount of mortar needed for various projects. For those of you who like things a bit more verbose, read on! (Brick refers to standard brick at 8 x 2-1/4 x 3-5/8" and Block refers to standard block at 8 x 8 x 16" (Both laid on a common staggered bond)
Project Type | 80lbs premixed Mortar per |
Pointing Brick (3/8-5/8") joints @ approx. 3/4" deep | 35-40 sq. ft. |
Pointing Brick (5/8-7/8") joints @ approx. 3/4" deep | 20-25 sq. ft. |
Pointing Block (3/8-5/8") joints @ approx. 3/4" deep | 200-250 sq. ft. |
Pointing Block (5/8-7/8") joints @ approx. 3/4" deep | 100-150 sq. ft. |
Laying Brick 3/8 - 1/2" joints | 35 brick |
Laying Brick 5/8 - 3/4" joints | 25 brick |
Laying Block 3/8 - 1/2" joints | 13 block |
Laying Block 5/8 - 3/4" joints | 8 block |
Considerations for calculating mortar needed For tuckpointing:
In a perfect world, on a perfect job, yeah, 70 sq. ft per bag. But Let me save you some agony by saying, this just isn't so. Waste and inconsistency has to be factored. Waste comes in many forms but mostly results from mortar that drops to the ground while pointing and mortar that cures too quickly and needs tossed.
If you're unsure or still have questions don't hesitate to comment below!
]]>When mis-matched mortar is used it can create a dirty, displeasing look. It's as visually appealing as walking around with mustard on the front of your shirt, it's gross. I mean, I've totally been there and done that, but a load of laundry is substantially less expensive than the smallest masonry repairs. That, AND shirts are, generally, not as good investment vehicles as buildings or homes. My wife is a financial advisor and also, my wife, so she agrees two-fold there. I digress, back on to it....
How do we match mortar for our masonry repairs? We use Solomon Colors Mortar Colors. Solomons concentrated mortar colors are the most consistent, longest lasting, easy to use mortar colors ever, period. Solomon offers 60 readily available colors, making mortar matching simple.
3 shades of 20 colors, produce that standard 60 readily available colors. The shades are categorized by their series. The series from darkest to lightest shade are A, H & X.
All Solomon color series (A, H and X) are the same product sold in different weighted bags (1, 2 & 4lbs) respectively.
The Solomon Color system is designed to add 1 bag of A, H, or X color to bags of masonry or Portland to achieve the desired color. Solomon’s system is based on weight ratios of color to cement to achieve intended color. Solomon’s instructions are noted on the bags of color, but I’ve also included them below.
However, through experience, I’ve found appropriate volume of color to use to achieve a desired series color with premix mortar sold in 60 or 80lb. bags.
60 lb. bag of premix mortar mixing instructions
80 lb. bag of premix mortar mixing instructions
The above ratios can be reduced by ½ to accommodate half of a 60 or 80 pound bag of premix mortar. (TO achieve A series color: 6oz. color to half a 60lb. bag for example.) Reducing the ratios by more than half can be done, but I would not recommend doing so, as it will result in a less consistent color, which could be a problem if you are in need of mixing multiple batches for use in the same area.
Pretty neat stuff huh? You looking for mortar color? We got you covered, check out our mortar color product page. Looking for additional information on mortar colors? Look no further.
Mixing Instructions Per SOLOMON:
INSTALLATION Preparatory Work: Solomon Colors color units packaging eliminates all job site weighing or measuring of colors, thereby achieving uniform color control for each mortar batch. In addition, the Solomon Colors’ Color Units concept allows accurate color control regardless of the mortar type, strength, and mortar mixture utilized. As detailed in Table 1, select the proper ASTM C270 masonry mix design of Type N, S, M or O compressive strength for the masonry units construction. Then, depending upon the masonry mix design, select the appropriate Solomon Colors color and specify the number of A, H or X series color units.
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Not all brick are created equally. Brick will vary in density, weight, shape, size, color and most importantly.... Strengths. Some brick are squishier, stretchier, more twistable and/or cuttable than others. Yep!, brick have a certain amount of elasticity. The same goes for cements, mortars, and all the other types of masonry units. (IE. terra cotta, block, stone etc.)
Using the wrong type of mortar for any given project will result in a rapid premature deterioration of the materials or worse, failure of the the structure built.
The mortar used for pointing, tuckpointing, or laying any particular brick, block or stone should be guided by the inherent strengths of the particular brick, block or stone. The strengths are based on how much directional force the brick/block/stone can take before permanently deforming or failing. The amount of stress at which the material fails is the yield point of each strength.
There are many strength values of any material. The most important strength to factor in your decision for the mortar to use will be compressive strength. Other strengths may be considered, but, in my experience, often are not.
Worth mentioning, retain it or not, 4 commonly considered strength values.
The compressive strength of mortar used should be less than the compressive strength of the surrounding masonry units, but still strong enough to support the structure. (That's in red to signify the importance, And IT IS the underlying theme of this entire article)
How to choose the right mortar for your masonry application:
FIRST, we must consider the compressive strength of the masonry units being used. SECONDLY, we choose the strongest mortar that will least likely cause damage the surrounding brick-block-stone etc.
Choosing the proper mortar in new construction is pretty simple. Many times, the manufacturer will specify the type of mortar for intended use. Easy peasy, huh? When it's not that easy, it's still pretty easy. The strengths of the brick, block, stone, terra-cotta etc. should be readily available from the supplier and/or manufacturer. Choose the type of mortar based on that information. We'll talk about the mortar types below, just hold your horses and keep reading.
Choosing the proper mortar for pointing/tuckpointing or any other masonry restoration work can be more difficult, especially for older brick homes where bricks may have been made on site or close by because either
The most precise way to know what type of mortar mix to use for tuck pointing or laying is to have a lab analysis of the original mortar. Yeah, you can pay dudes in lab coats to chemically deconstruct the mortar and they can tell you the ratio of Portland cement, lime and sand (Those 3 ingredients will determine mortar type) that was used in mortar used for original construction, even if that mortar is over a 100 years old.
While I understand the process has value, I personally feel it's over-rated. Wondering where you can get a lab analysis of your mortar? LMGTFY (Let me google that for you) Here's 2:
The lab analysis would really only be beneficial for preserving a structure to its historical specifications, providing the original mortar used was the appropriate kind. How would you know if the wrong mortar was used? Evidence of improper mortar used will be premature deterioration of the mortar itself or failure of the surrounding masonry units. (Brick, block and stone will spall, crack or deteriorate if the surrounding mortar's compressive strength is too high.)
Below is a table of the compressive and tensile strengths of some common masonry units for consideration in choosing the correct mortar type masonry restoration work.
Material | Compression Strength | Tension Strength | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
(psi) | (kPa) | (psi) | (kPa) | |
Bricks, hard | 12000 | 80000 | 400 | 2800 |
Bricks, light | 1000 | 7000 | 40 | 280 |
Brickwork, common quality | 1000 | 7000 | 50 | 350 |
Brickwork, best quality | 2000 | 14000 | 300 | 2100 |
Granite | 19000 | 130000 | 700 | 4800 |
Limestone | 9000 | 60000 | 300 | 2100 |
Portland Cement, less than one month old | 2000 | 14000 | 400 | 2800 |
Portland Cement, more than one year old | 3000 | 21000 | 500 | 3500 |
Portland Concrete, 28 days old | 5000 | 35000 | 200 | 1400 |
Portland Concrete, more than one year old | 6200 | 43000 | 400 | 2800 |
Sandstone | 9000 | 60000 | 300 | 2100 |
Slate | 14000 | 95000 | 500 | 3500 |
Trap rock | 20000 | 140000 | 800 | 5500 |
MORTAR TYPES:
I'm going to keep this short and sweet, because I already wrote a pretty sweet blog on this very topic a while back. Check it out: MORTAR TYPES: M, S, O, N, K: TUCKPOINTING AND LAYING MASONRY
3 Basic ingredients
In different specific ratios, will produce the
5 different types of mortar.
The types were named based on alternating letters of the phrase MaSoN wOrK. Clever, ain't it? But you'd already know that if you read the other blog I linked to. Seriously, check it out.
Back on point.... below is a table specifying the compressive strength of each mortar type in pounds per square inch (psi).
MORTAR TYPE
|
COMPRESSIVE STRENGTH (PSI)
|
Type M
|
2500 psi
|
Type S
|
1800 psi |
Type N
|
750 psi |
Type O
|
350 psi |
Type K
|
75 psi |
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Coloring/Dying/Tinting mortar is no new thing, it's been around quite a while. It's older than me even, and I am 32 1/2 years old. That's old for a Mason.
Coloring mortar is a practice nearly as old as mortar itself. From Red to Green, Yellow to Black and Brown and others in between, Colors are available in nearly every color family. The methods for coloring mortar are many and more.
Mortar is typically colored to compliment surrounding masonry units (Brick, Block & Stone) Colors are used in many aspects of masonry including new construction, color matching surrounding mortar in spot tuckpointing, complete tuckpointing to entirely change the mortar color & historic restorations. Note: Mortar without color added is generally going to be some shade of grey or grey-white and is referred to as Natural Mortar.
Mortar has 3 basic ingredients: 1.) Portland Cement, 2.) Lime and 3.) Sand/aggregate. Choosing a white or grey Portland cement with various colors of sand will yield many colors. The amount of sand and size of the grains will produce different color too.
Adding color to the mix: Beyond changing up the basic ingredients, pigment can be added to the mortar mix. Int the past, Pigments for a variety of colors have been used from a variety of things, including pitch for black. Yuck.
How is mortar colored nowadays, ya say? I'm glad you ask, though I would've told ya anyway.
Rust. (Did I hear that right? Rust?) Firstly, ya didn't hear anything, ya read it. Secondly, yep, RUST. That orangish, reddish, sometimes down right deep brownish powder that coats rarely used and neglected metally things. Rusts are the best pigments for mortar. The most common form of rust is oxidized iron or steel. Other metals oxidize all the same, producing a variety of dust colors. Then those colors can be mixed to make even more colors.
I'm simplifying the situation, of course, but I'm just a Mason, not a scientist. Odds are, you aren't a scientist either, If you ARE a scientist, or just a well-read dude or dudette looking to know more, lemme point you to some more detailed, larger words about the topic from the industry leader in masonry colors. Solomon Colors Inc.
Solomon Mortar Colors has Research and Development as it's core focus. They have been in the industry for nearly 100 years. Solomon produces the finest mortar colors I've ever used. Their colors are consistent, durable and easy to use.
(Where can I buy some of that rust dust?)
You're on the right site, wrong page! GO HERE
Gotta Question? Contact us, or comment below!
]]>Mortar is generally replaced when it's deteriorated, through the process of tuckpointing. Tuckpointing, sometimes referred to as pointing or repointing, is hard work. The existing mortar between brick, block and/or stone must first be removed to a proper depth for a lasting, quality tuckpointing job.
The best depth is arguable, but generally at least 1/2-3/4" deep OR to solid backing as needed. The ambiguity there is where controversy exists. What is a solid backing? Not here... Not now... I will not continue to digress.
Back on topic: Mortar is a strong material, removing it requires some tough guys with tough tools. The 2 most common method of mortar removal:
Though the raker bar is dumb, it has practical uses.
In my biased opinion, An Angle Grinder with a diamond Masonry blade, is where it is at and is also what is up.
Click one of the images below to find one or the other from our store.
Thoughts, comments, questions? Contact us or comment below. We encourage questions. We're Masons, and We're to help.
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Some common jointers for different joint profiles pictured above. From Left to Right: 1. Ribbon, 2.) Beaded, 3.) Concave, 4.) Flat.
Mortar and Grout joints vary in color, texture, size and profile. Color and texture will not factor in on your jointer selection. The jointer chosen for any application will be the one that will yield the closest size and profile to the existing surrounding mortar joints.
For instance; if you have mortar joints that are 3/4" wide with a concave finish, you would want to start with a 3/4" concave jointer. Some masons, though, prefer to work with jointers a size smaller (5/8") than the existing open joint because it offers a bit more control when loading you jointer with mortar.
What does a concave joint look like? What other types of mortar joints exist?
Good questions Jake. Thanks Jake. A concave joint is one that has sides flush with the exterior edge and rolls into the center....ya know what? This is going to be way too many words.... Heres a picture the most common joint profiles.
A unique tuck-pointing tool, (we call 'em jointers), exists for any application.
Choose your joint profile: Pointing tools are available to accommodate the above 10 joint profiles. Each profile jointer is available in many sizes and styles.
Choose your joint width: After you know the joint profile, you'll want to know the joint size. Jointers are available in nearly all sizes but the most common/easy to find are
(1/8" - 1/4" - 3/8" - 1/2" - 5/8" - 3/4" - 7/8" - 1" - 1-1/4")
Other joint sizes and the tools to address them exist, though they are harder to find and made by fewer companies.
Choose your style: Let's say you got your profile and joint size figured out and now you're looking for a 5/8" concave jointing tool. Now you will decide what type of jointer you want to work with. With different qualities, options (Handle grip, material, etc.), manufacturers "unique designs", your choices are many. But the basics are 2:
With 10 joint profiles, and the many joint sizes, plus the variety of styles of jointers offered by other companies, that equals math. Math isn't my forte, masonry restoration and pointing are. Let me help you keep it simple. The highest quality, longest lasting, easiest to use, best tuck-pointing jointers are our hand-forged premium jointers.
All, yes, ALL the other jointers out there are either stamped or formed from lower quality steel, offering less wear resistance, or made with crappy tack-welds at where the tang meets the blade, so if they don't wear up right quick, they just break.
Our jointers are hand-forged from a single piece of 4140 steel. 4140 grade is an alloy steel containing chromium and molybdenum as strengthening agents. They are formed with just the right angle at where the tang meets the blade producing a well balanced comfortable tool while offering the perfect amount of clearance to prevent busted knuckles. AND each jointer is outfitted with a solid hardwood handle.
Are you a Pro in search of a better tuckpointing jointer? A DIY who appreciates nice tools? You're so close. Just a CLICK AWAY.
Questions? I like questions. Send us questions, We're here to help!
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